Carina Sjoberg-Hawke an English student of History in the National Park Sangay

Atillo, Zuñac and Macas

Atillo, 3100m
There are about 640 people in the community of Atillo. It is a community that has always been, if not always officially recognised, for centuries, even before the Incas. But there originally there were no natives; the ancestors were actually from Colombia, or some from the Orient or Coast.

Over 200 years ago there were two lots of indigenous peoples living in the surrounding areas, Pruhes and Shuars. Then came the Colombians, who settled in the area which is now Atillo. The Spaniards followed. With each new nation over the years a mix of nations naturally occurred. The Spaniards brought with them horses and eventually roads; trading became commonplace, but distances were of course still very remote. Until the arrival of automobiles, riding horses to Riobamba, for example, took two days or more. And even after the arrival automobiles, this would still be the case as the roads were not always passable by vehicles.

For many decades there was a fight for freedom from Spanish landlords of the farms. In 1933 Atillo residents got their right to own their own land and cattle. This was a first in the whole of Ecuador.

Links between Atillo and Macas in the east have always been strong with or without a road. The relationships between Atillo and the closer areas to the west on the other hand have never been so strong.

This no doubt has a lot to do with family, language and education: a lot of relatives of those in Atillo reside in Macas; a lot of the closer areas still speak kichwa (castellano too though) whereas the residents of Atillo do not, haven’t done for at least eighty years (eg. Dora’s parents know just enough, but not a lot, of Kichwa, to converse with those beyond Atillo); and there has been a school in Atillo for eighty years teaching in Castellano only.

Atillo, and no doubt many villages, towns, cities, in Ecuador, is very conservative. I have learned for example that to jut have a boyfriend at the age of thirty could be unwelcome if you’re not going to marry. Having kid out of wedlock VERY frowned upon. Perhaps not unlike society in England and other European countries a few decades ago. But I get the impression that things are changing, even in the small remote places. Education perhaps has a lot to do with it and knowledge of the outside world so much more available.

I think it is difficult if you ant to get out. You rely on your family for food, room, etc, but if you decide you to live your own life, with or without someone else and you no money and your parents would be angry with you, may never speak to you again, it is very difficult to rebel.

But rebel would seem to be the answer if change is what you want in a community like Atillo. You’d have to accept that you’d be looked down upon, perhaps not talk to family for years and have a long, difficult toil ahead.

Question is who is right or which life is better? Or even should we be allowed what we want? It is not for me to say or judge, although I think it is and always should be the individual’s choice and decision.

Zuñac, 2400m
This is a small catholic parish with no indigenous people. Seventy years ago the population of the original Zuñac (200-300 metres further up), descendents of yet again Colombians, came down to Sambicentre, which is now the centre of Zuñac. Today there are forty-six families, approximately 200 people. They all mostly work with agriculture, and mostly for themselves. They rarely sell anything they make, though if they do, they go to Macas.

The road, tunnel and bridge on which it lies was welcomed when constructed, because, as many residents told me, made 6 days to Riobamba 3 hours instead! The other road recently added between Guamote and Macas has been a mixed fortune; less business for the local restaurant for example, but less traffic disturbing the peace and environment. The tunnel though is not finished; rumour has it that the government would prefer to spend money on the coast. Apparently it will continue in February.

The restaurant owner is from Riobamba. He says there is nothing to do in Zuñac and misses Riobamba. I also met the Tenure Secretary, the President of the parish (who preferred I talk to others in the community) and an old guy who was supposed to know a lot about the history of the parish, but actually didn’t have much to say or at least wouldn’t expand on much. The language barrier of course made it difficult.

It is a modern parish – has a telephone centre, something that Atillo doesn’t have, and a new church - tucked between jungle and sierra often surrounded by mist, that welcomes new innovations, facilitators (the road and tunnel etc) but it also continues the old ways strongly; community spirit, agriculture for themselves, faith (rest on Sundays!)

I didn’t learn much about the history; the people didn’t seem to want to talk about the past or at least assume “history” is only the past fifty-odd years, where as I’m interested in centuries back.

Macas, 1500m
The road to Macas is a dangerous one, or at least, not straight-forward! It is unfinished, full of pot holes, mud and stones, trees/twigs in the way following lots of rain, and during the time I visited, landslides caused more problems.

When there is a landslide either the road is impassable or vehicles get stuck. In either case, the drivers get out and deal with it, change buses on either side of the landslide or pick up stones and form an adequate pass. Sometimes this is still a problem through, as even though smaller vehicles may get by no problem, the big buses can and do get stuck, so the drivers and passengers get out and “dig it out” of the situation!

Once passed the very high ground, the chances of landslides are less, but the road is still at times a bumpy ride and there are other problems with or without much rain, like waterfalls, which at times cross the roads, so always extra careful driving.

As you head down the air becomes heavier, warmer, more humid passing very green vegetation, jungle-like.

When in Macas it’s a totally different arena to the páramos, a city, surrounded by jungle vegetation, hills of such, and the view of the river from the church and/or radio station is very tropical. The difference between the sierra and the oriente feel very defined.

The city itself is very clean; notices everywhere next to bins saying help keep Macas clean. The weekends are pretty quiet, a lot of places closed. It seems to be a very relaxed kind of town, perhaps because of the heat – lots of sun always comes with a laid back attitude!

Un mes en los Andes es una experiencia relajante y tranquila. He aprendido mucho de la gente de Los Saskines y Atillo. Esa gente hace trabajos duros con poco tiempo para relajar, pero se parece que les gusta trabajar porque muchas veces las chicas se reín tontamente!

Durante el mes allí trabajaba también en una escuela tres días por semana; enseñaba inglés durante una hora y media a trece niños. Los niños pensaba que estaba llena de alegría. Un mes no es mucho para aprender inglés, pero los niños aprendía de todas maneras como se dicen "hello, how are you?"!!

Me alegro de que tuve la oportunidad para llegar a conocer la familia Paña. Son ahora mis amigos preciosos.